Myth #1: There is no such thing as a harsh bit, but only harsh hands.

Myth #2: Any bit can be severe in the wrong hands.

Myth #3: Bits with broken mouthpieces are snaffle bits. 

Myth #4: Snaffle bits are inherently milder than curb bits.

Myth #5: All long shank bits are inhumane, unforgiving, and severe.

Myth #6: A horse that is difficult to stop requires a more severe bit.

Myth #7: Bits with solid mouthpieces can be used for direct reining.

Myth #8: Tom Thumb bits are very mild.

Myth #9: Wonder bits are useful, effective tools for gaited horses.

Myth #10: Bitless bridles and hackamores are more humane that bits.

Isn’t it amazing how many inaccurate ‘facts’ there are regarding the subject of bitting a horse? There are certainly bits that are harsh regardless of how tactful the rider may be, and other bits that are very forgiving, even in insensitive hands. Snaffle bits work directly from the rider’s seat and hands to the horse’s mouth. Therefore, if a rider has anything less than perfect balance and timing, the horse is likely to experience a continual ‘snatching’ on his sensitive mouth. Some curb (shanked) bits are much more humane than snaffle (non-shank) bits. A bit that has the proper ratio of purchase to shank and a well designed mouthpiece (such as my Imus Comfort Bit) can be an effective, humane communication device even in less educated hands. I’ll explain exactly why this is true later on in this article. 

A horse that is difficult to stop needs to be retrained to give to lighter and lighter rein pressure. Increasing the severity of the bit only increases the horse’s ability to resist its rider’s aids, and ultimately exacerbates the problem.

Bits with one piece, solid mouthpieces should never be used for direct reining, lateral work, or one rein stops. At best, the horse is just being yanked around by his mouth. At worst, he’s developing a strong insensitivity to his rider’s rein.

So called Tom Thumb bits – or any bit with a broken mouthpiece and shanks – are extraordinarily severe, no matter how good the rider’s hands may be. The slightest take on the reins causes the mouthpiece to suddenly collapse across the horse’s tongue and bars, the joint in the middle rises to hit the upper palate, and the curb chain tightens up to place the horse’s entire lower jaw in a vice-like grip. There’s no way that such a device can be used tactfully. Many horses ‘work well’ out of these broken mouth curbs (all bits with shanks are curb bits, regardless of the style of the mouthpiece). This is simply because they respond quickly in order to have as little contact with the bit as possible. Many riders confuse fast, obedient responses with willing cooperation. There’s a vast difference between the two.

So called Wonder (or gag) bits also work from the principle of pain avoidance. There is no communication at the horse’s poll to warn of an upcoming request at the mouth. Instead, the mouthpiece is pulled harder and harder across the tongue and at the corner of the horse’s lips. To avoid the pain of this contact, the horse will overflex and tuck, creating a ‘collected’ look. Failing to do so results in a sudden jerk on the horse’s mouth once the gag has been fully engaged – so most horses quickly learn either to overflex, or to become star gazers in an attempt to avoid contact. Besides the immediate pain inflicted by a gag bit, there are negative long term effects as well. True collection originates through the loins and back, and allows the horse to move in a way that is healthy and well balanced. Encouraging false collection is highly detrimental to the horse’s long term soundness, often resulting in hollow backs and hock and stifle issues.

While the idea of riding without a bit might seem ideal, hackamores and bitless bridles also work from pain avoidance. Don’t believe it? Take your index finger and push hard on the cartilage at the side of your nose, and hold it there for five seconds. Repeat this a dozen times over the next hour. Wait an hour or so, and do this again. It’s remarkable how sore that cartilage becomes when pressure is applied! The cartilage on the horse’s face is equally sensitive, and the pressure of a hackamore or bitless bridle against that soft tissue creates swelling and tenderness that the horse avoids. . .by responding quickly to a rider’s cues.

I greatly prefer a well designed curb bit over a snaffle. Such a bit offers the rider the opportunity for logical and consecutive communication not available via a snaffle. When you pull on the rein of a curb bit, because of the shanks, there’s slight pressure at the poll that notifies the horse of an impending request, while at the same time encouraging him to lower his head. If you place light downward pressure at the back and top of someone’s head, you’ll see that it takes very little for them to lower their head. This lowering of the head serves to a) relax the horse and b) prepare the animal physically for the next step of the request.

After the poll pressure, the action of the curb strap or chain comes into play. This should be adjusted so there’s approximately 3” between the chin groove and the curb chain when the reins are at rest. That way, there is a beat of time between when the horse is notified at the poll and lowers its head, and when the curb chain takes at the chin groove, encouraging the horse to flex at the poll and tuck its head.

If you lower your head, and then tuck your chin, you’ll notice that this action stretches and relaxes your upper back and neck. It is the physical equivalent of a horse raising its back – which is what happens when the horse first lowers its head, and then flexes at the poll to tuck its chin. You have the very early stages of true collection, and haven’t even touched the horse’s mouth yet!

Finally, the mouthpiece takes hold and signals your specific request, whether it be to halt, turn, rein back, half halt, etc. The beauty of this is that the horse has been mentally and physically prepared for this request in a logical 1-2-3 (lower, tuck, take) manner. Of course, the problem is that many bits on the market are not designed in such a way to permit this kind of logical, sequential communication.

So what constitutes a good, effective and pain free bit design?  Glad you asked!

When considering a curb bit, one important feature is the ratio of the purchase (upper shank above the mouthpiece) to the lower shank. This should be approximately two-to-one. If the purchase is much shorter than this, then there’s no early communication at the poll, and the horse is simply grabbed at the chin and in the mouth at approximately the same time. This can result in a high-headed, false collection with little vertical flexion or relaxation.

On the other hand, if the purchase is too long in relation to the length of the lower shank, then there’s an exaggerated request at the poll, and all of the actions take hold all at one time. You are likely to get overflexing with this kind of bit.

The mouthpiece should be smooth, and reasonably thick. A thinner mouthpiece has a cutting action on the soft tissues. Ideally, there is a center joint so that the rider can work the horse laterally, or on one rein. That joint needs to be pinch free – no small task, but it can be done. Hold the bit over the soft tissue of your lower arm and take on the shanks to see if there’s the potential for pinching. Ideally, there is no potential for pinching or chaffing at the corner of the horse’s lips, either.

I like to see a mouthpiece with lots of tongue relief, since horses have very thick tongues. If the tongue is trapped by a straight mouthpiece, it’s impossible for the animal to swallow. I get a kick out of how impressed some people are when a horse exhibits a foamy mouth. Sure we want to have a moist mouth, but it’s not necessary for the poor animal to slobber all the way down the trail! This is a result of the tongue being trapped by a straight mouthed bit.

Below is a photo of the Imus Comfort Bit, showing the features that I’ve discussed in this article. In addition to those features, the mouthpiece is designed to extend beyond the horse’s lips. This allows it to fit a very wide variety of horses, avoids pinching the corners of the lips, and gives a swivel action on the tongue and bars that encourages the horse to lower its head and bend softly into a turn. Since horses instinctively resist direct pressure, this indirect pressure is effective at eliciting a relaxed response.

The Imus Comfort Gait™ Bit a mouthpiece that offers plenty of tongue relief for the horse, encouraging him to drop his head into the bit, rather than stiffening up against it. It boasts flush brass fittings in the pinchless mouthpiece and cheekpieces, and smooth, independent action from side to side. This allows the rider to work the horse laterally, as well as lift a shoulder or use a leading rein.

Price: $69.95